This is NOT intended as a 'How To'.
I spent some time searching online for plans or idea on building my own CW paddle. Go ahead, do a quick search, there is little to nothing available. Because of the lack of information available online, I decided to share my experience with who ever happens to run across this page. There are no measurements or detailed instructions to be found here, just ideas I hope you can use to build your own project.
Parts I Used
8 - Knurled Nuts, Brass
5 - Flat Washers, Brass
3 - Wood Insert Nuts, Brass
5 - 3/4" Pan Head Screws, Brass
2 - 1 1/2" Pan Head Screws, Brass
4 - Shelf Pins, Brass
1 - 6” Stainless Steel Ruler
Rubber Cushions, Wire, Oak Block
Total cost was about $15 - $20. Using pine instead of oak, a hack saw blade instead of the ruler, and standard nuts instead of knurled would cut the cost in half.
Construction was very simply. I drilled seven holes in my block of wood. This was the hardest part. Getting them lined up with one another was difficult. A drill press would have been wonderful. The four on the surface are all the way through and the three on the end are about 2" deep to accommodate the wood insert nuts and screws that I installed next each with a washer.
Next I soldered wire onto the studs of three of the shelf pins. These wires will be inserted thought the wood block and the shelf pins hammered into place. I used a little Gorilla Glue to ensure they stay put.
These wires now need to be connected to the three screws on the end of the block. this is also good time to stick on the rubber cushions. The rest of the work takes place on the top side.
Two knurled nuts each side bind the adjustment screws to their respective shelf pins.
I used two knurled nuts, two washers, and a 3/4" screw with the head cut off, to attach the ruler to the back two shelf pins. The ruler was cut to length and I drilled a hole in each end.
All that is left is to attached 2 knurled nuts with a 3/4" screw with the head cut off as a finger piece, to the other end of the ruler.
That is all there is to it. Seems to work quite well. I adjusted the sensitivity until I was comfortable with it.
Now that I am finished, and have had time to examine my work, I think on my next one, the screws on the end of the block for the wiring will be mounted on the top. This will make attaching the wires from the radio much easier. I may even use knurled nuts.
And although the wiring underneath is out of sight, it is definately not out of my mind. I am not happy with the way it looks. I will have to figure out a better way. If you have a suggestion, let me know.
Now there is just one more thing for me to do...